Saloni Pre-Fall 2015
Elie Saab Spring 2015
December has not one or two birthstones, but three! All varying shades of luscious blue, from rich Tanzanite, to the delicate pastel blue of the zircon, to the inviting aquatic blue of turquoise. These blues also featured prominently on the season’s fashion color report that color authority Pantone compiles. For Spring 2015, the overall feel is “ethereal” and “nostalgic” according to Leatrice Eiseman, head of the Pantone Color Institute. She notes that the palette, called En Plein Air, brings to mind “retro delights,” “folkloric art” and “magical worlds of tropical landscapes.” The three blues are Classic Blue, Scuba Blue and Aquamarine.
Classic Blue (PANTONE 19-4052) has strong visual appeal and “waterborne qualities” that enable it to anchor the palette as a whole. It is also perceived of as introspective. “Reliable and thoughtful, it inspires calm, confidence and harmony,” says Eiseman. The second striking blue, Scuba Blue (PANTONE 16-4725) adds a splash of visual excitement. “Scuba Blue conveys a sense of carefree playfulness,” notes Eiseman. “A feeling of escape as it is reminiscent of a tropical ocean. This stirring and energizing shade takes us off to an exotic paradise that is pleasant and inviting, even if only a fantasy.” And the third blue, Aquamarine (PANTONE 14-4313), introduces a dreamy, relaxing feel. “Open and expansive, this restful blue also acts as a stress reducer,” adds Eiseman. “Cool and calming, ethereal Aquamarine is a shade with a wet and watery feel.”
These blues proved directional, not only for Spring 2015, but well into the end of the year, dominating many of the important Pre-Fall 2015 collections:
Chanel Pre-Fall 2015; Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2015
At Oscar de la Renta, the new creative director, Peter Copping, showed Scuba Blue in a collection which was very “maharaja’s wife moves to New York, gets a place on Park Avenue, and needs things to wear to her nightly galas.” At Chanel – one of the top five, if not top three, influential collections – Scuba Blue made a pretty splash. Pre-Fall was also a showcase for the maison’s latest Métiers d’Art show, which celebrates the amazing craftsmanship of Chanel’s artisans. Held in Salzburg, the feel of the clothing was as jewel-like as the show’s luxurious Baroque setting and musical influences (Salzburg was, after all, the birthplace of Mozart as well as the backdrop for the lovely duet Sixteen Going on Seventeen in The Sound of Music.) As an interesting aside, the location was the Mittersill Hotel, where the uniform of a hotel page provided Coco with the inspiration for what was to become the iconic Chanel jacket. With both of these high profile collections showcasing Scuba Blue, don’t be surprised when you start seeing it everywhere.
Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2015; Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2015
Classic Blue was featured both at Bottega Veneta and Proenza Schouler. While Proenza’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough went for the hue in a head-to-toe knit (definitely not the most forgiving outfit ever), at Bottega, Tomas Maier grounded Classic Blue with Scuba Blue and Aquamarine – as well as dashes of Custard and Lucite Green – in a very midcentury-groovy print. As one fashion writer wittily described the vibe: “Imagine Camelot-era Jackie Kennedy on a tour of the gallery scene in late-’90s East Berlin.”
Versace Pre-Fall 2015; Lela Rose Pre-Fall 2015
As Versace, Donatella V. worked techno fabrics into lean, abstract houndstooth-check shapes and adorned them with hefty splashes of Classic Blue. The impact was simultaneously mod, luxe, sleek and directional. In other words, not your normal Versace-dripping-in-sex we’ve come to expect. Lela Rose opted for a muted Scuba Blue color-blocked with black and used lace, which made for an interesting result. Her inspiration was a work that hangs in her living room (shown behind the model) by Michael DeLucia. The artist started with a giant piece of wood and employed high-tech lasers to make it appear to have been shredded by hand.
Piazza Sempione Pre-Fall 2015; Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2015
The choice of dusty Aquamarine looks fresh and interesting. Particularly as a ballgown-length skirt at Carolina Herrera. She paired it with a black silk top embellished with tone-on-tone jet cabochons to create an ensemble that could have easily stepped right out of a vintage photograph by Irving Penn. Her signature crisp white buttondown would look equally chic with this stunning skirt. At Piazza Sempione, an Aquamarine schoolgirl sweater paired with a wool plaid kilt gave the hue a distinctly “Made in Italy” feel that is a signature of the brand. It was recently acquired by the same group that produces Love Moschino and See by Chloé, Sinv SpA. According to the collection director, Fabio Falleti, the new aesthetic direction of the label is to preserve its element of Italian heritage, but embody more of a modern feel.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi; ZAC Zac Posen
Classic Blue can sometimes err a little too much on the side of “classic” (aka “boring”) but definitely not at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, where glittery paillettes made the color more showoffy – in a really good way. For his ZAC Zac Posen line, the designer was flirting with “Latin American aesthetics.” However, instead of going all crafty, he chose to tap into the fiery and fabulous attitude of Frida Kahlo, resulting in luxe looks like this striking dress. The colorblocking of satin in Classic Blue and a rich Lucite Green made us want to run right out and treat ourselves to a matching color-blocked mani!
And lastly, Saloni Lodha (very top) used a saturated and bright Classic Blue to channel that marvelous musical classic starring a doe-eyed and very young Catherine Deneuve, Les Parapluies de Cherbourg (The Umbrellas of Cherbourg) from 1964. “The ’60s, yes, but also the incredible color palette,” explains the designer. “Turquoise blues were like Technicolor come to life.”
We also looked to Pantone’s Women’s Spring 2015 Fashion Color Report for accessorizing inspiration. According to Leatrice Eiseman, the following color pairings will put you squarely ahead of the fashion pack:
Classic Blue + Scuba Blue + Lucite Green + Custard
Scuba Blue + Classic Blue + Lucite Green
Aquamarine + Glacier Gray + Marsala (Pantone’s 2015 Color of the Year)
How do you incorporate these luminous hues into your own look? Be sure to use the hashtag #Isharya and show us your best jewelry blues!
P.S. Sing your blues this season. Check out our blue lapis lazuli jewelry.