“Miuccia Prada’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection inspired us to imagine a party to end all parties. The end of disco. An After Party for New York’s most elite, the most avant-garde, a place where people strut and swagger, uptown meets downtown, celebrity meets street style. Each character is an individual, each is a non-conformist, each parties like it’s 1979. No one wants to leave, because, if they do, the fantasy will vanish.”– costume designer Michael Wilkinson (American Hustle) & his partner, Tim Martin
Not that anyone would ever want to leave anything Prada behind. Particularly not the models on the designer’s Spring/Summer ‘15 runway, embodying a mystery woman amidst the lilac-colored sand dunes, seemingly on the run from her old life. Striding someplace new in her somewhat impractical – but undeniably fabulous! – pointy footwear, she has her diamonds not on the soles of her shoes but sewn discreetly into her neckline (below)! Such is the journey of a diamond from precious to precocious in the capable, if offbeat, hands of Muiccia Prada.
What we found most intriguing about this particular collection was the way Muiccia took diamonds more to the “dark” side, showcasing them as just a small part of the breathtaking beauty of all the natural elements, and demonstrating how to wear them for everyday in a more cool and downtown kind of way. Which is great news for fashionistas, especially those born in April wondering about more ways to show off their shimmery birthstone – and not just the colorless ones, but fancy stones in intense shades of yellow, red, pink, blue or green. (A diamond acquires its color when it’s being formed when non-carbon elements like hydrogen and nitrogen sneak in while it’s being crystallized.)
For her S/S’15 mainline collection, Prada explored the contrast of rich and poor, taking a plush fabric like brocade down a notch with leather strips applied in a way that looked like the garment had been mended (possibly right there in the sand). Although the silhouettes were Prada-as-usual – coats with A-line shapes and ¾ length sleeves, knee-length skirts worn with “little” sweaters and coatdresses (belted…of course) – the feel of the collection was off-kilter and not business as usual. (Just like the pastel-pretty shade of the sand and those sewn-in diamonds.) Rough topstitching, hems that trailed and stuffing peeking out from pockets completed an interesting picture of formerly-magnificent gilded garments now upcycled to more practical ends. “I wanted to revive the beauty of incredible fabrics,” explained the designer in a backstage interview about this sartorial “confrontation with antiquity,” adding that beauty was also “an impossibility.” (As we said: offbeat.)
Such is Ms. Muiccia’s influence on fashion that it inspires flights of fancy on the part of insiders like costume designer Milena Canonero, probably most famous for her work on the Kubrick classic A Clockwork Orange. “I imagined interpreting the Prada Spring/Summer 2015 collection through the filter of the five elements and their interconnection,” she notes. “Like feng shui, the ancient Chinese philosophy inspired by Taoism that teaches us to harmonise our surroundings with the environment and nature,” adding that this particular collection resonates strongly for her with the four elements – water, fire, air and earth – the four elements, culminating “in the fifth element, human love.”
Which, on occasion, we’ve been known to spell as D-I-A-M-O-N-D-S.
So tell us: how do you do your diamonds? Don’t forget to use @Isharya!
Images sourced from www.style.com and www.prada.com